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Wedged deep in the Himalaya between India and China, the secretive kingdom of Bhutan guards its independence while its neighbors have been swallowed by the giants. Bhutan markets itself as the last Shangri-La, but a closer look shows crime, discrimination and religious manipulation. Murray Gunn and his French wife came to understand Bhutan better while living there for two years - but risked their marriage in the process. A travel memoir of discovery and change.